Monday, 27 October 2014

Perfect Fit Skirt Sloper

I've dived into the world of pattern drafting head first!  I'm really inspired by all the possibilities and excited about what I've learned thus far.  There are so many possibilities once you have a well fitting sloper.  I'm learning from Suzy Furrer and her textbook "Building Patterns: The Architecture of Women's Clothing".  She also has a few really awesome Craftsy classes which I highly recommend.

I decided to start simple with a skirt sloper.  After taking accurate measurements I drafted a basic skirt sloper and sewed it up in muslin.  I had to make a few adjustments to improve the fit.  I moved the front darts over 11/4" toward the side seam to reduce fabric pooling under the dart.  I also trimmed 1/8" off the low hip.  The sideseam was not perfectly vertical so I brought down the front waist shaping line an extra 1/2".  After that there was gaping in the back waist so I took in an extra 1/4" back contouring on both sides.Then I dropped the waist line at the sideseam 1/4" to get rid of a few pull lines in the front.

I learned how to true my darts and of course sideseams.

 Here is my final skirt sloper on poster board.  I'll use this template to draft whatever style skirt I wish.  Pretty awesome eh?  Freedom from searching and searching for just the right pattern!

The final muslin looked really good and I was excited to draft a skirt pattern from this and make an awesome skirt in fashion fabric.

Coming up next:  Pencil Skirt with peplum!

Happy Sewing!

Thursday, 23 October 2014

Buffalo Plaid Archer!

My second Archer shirt is completed!  I like this one better mainly because I think I did a better job on it than the first time around.  I lengthened it by 2 inches.  Otherwise, I sewed view A as per pattern instructions.

 I cut the pockets, yoke, cuffs and front placket on the bias.

I tried to pattern match the seams at least vertically.

Inside the shirt:  French seams and bias tape hem. 

I chose these royal blue pearl snaps just because I love the pop of colour! 

I marked my seam allowances on the cuff in order to get the corners just right. 

Here's what I did to my pattern: 2 inch lengthening in the bodice.  This makes the shirt fit a bit better on me.  I also feel that the extra length counteracts the boxiness of the fit. 

Well, I'm quite happy with my casual, comfy shirts but I think that's it for now.  I'm eager to go back to my feminine, fitted patterns! 

Happy Sewing!

Friday, 3 October 2014

Autumn Archer Shirt

Yah!  I just finished the Archer Button up shirt from Grainline Studio.  This project was definitely a learning adventure for me.  Mostly learning to pay more attention to right vs. left and such.  Yeah, I had a little bit of sewing dyslexia.  But the reason I'm extra proud of this project is because I partially completed one of my sewing goals.  That goal is to sew more casual comfy everyday garments and a flannel shirt for fall... and boy is this ever a comfy warm shirt.  It's like wearing a hug.

This shirt is not actually flannel but brushed cotton.  I wanted a yarn dyed woven fabric as opposed to a printed flannel.  That ensures I get the plaid pattern and grainline working as one.  Oh yeah and I kind of did some pattern matching on the side seams but that's about it.

Things I've learned:  I mixed up the left and right front pattern pieces so my shirt closes like a mans shirt.  I don't mind it but next time I'll pay more attention to the way I place my pattern pieces.  I also sewed the collar on backwards and couldn't undo it because I already trimmed my seam allowances!  Yikes,  I was about to give up but I figured it's salvageable.  I ended up carefully slipstitching the collarstand to the outside of the shirt.  I'm happy the way it turned out but next time I need to pay more attention to putting things together the right way.  With my next shirt I think I'll also pay more attention to pattern matching.

 Yep, there's my dyslexic collar...

I decided to do a bias tape hem.  It's a neat finish and I felt that I wished the shirt was a tiny bit longer so this way I only lost 1/4 inch in length during the hemming process.

I love the cuffs and the white pearl snaps!

This was the sideseam and sleeve topstitching process.

I graded the seam allowances using pinking shears for one layer.

 I hand basted in the shoulder seam prior to the burrito method seen below.

My little flannel burrito

 I've always disliked setting in sleeves.  I'm always worried about getting puckers.  I hand basted one of the sleeves prior to sewing it in.  It takes a little more time but really makes a huge difference.

Awesome pattern,  I'm definitely going to make another one.

Happy Sewing.