Friday, 22 January 2016

Vintage Apron À La Liberty of London!

This is an awesome apron!  I want to wear it out to the grocery store! I'm so glad I decided to use my Liberty of London fabric for this project.  It turned out to be a match made in heaven!  This print is called "Ricardo's Blooms".  A little too sweet and bright for everyday garments, but I've discovered that it's perfect for kitchen paraphernalia.  I already have a set of napkins planned with the leftover fabric.  Yes, they are cut out and waiting to be stitched.

 Anyways,  this is Vogue 8643 a vintage reprint from 1952.

I thought this would be a quick sewing project.  But I was wrong.  It turned out to be a lot more involved than I expected.  Part of that was my fault because I decided to underline every single piece, which I admit was totally worth the result.

 This midriff piece is tacked in place to the waistband so that it's scalloped lower edge floats over the gathers.  I love that effect, very well thought out, very couture.  Those old patterns were high quality.

The bib curves over the shoulders and around the neck, closing with a button.

So, here is the inside view.  I underlined every piece of fabric with cotton batiste.  I'm really glad I decided to do that because it added some body to the thin cotton lawn without being stiff like quilting cotton.  This also made the gathers extra lush and made the colour of the print brighter.  Overall, I believe the underlining elevated the quality and feel of this apron.  

 I did a clean finish on all the seam allowances.

Here is a close-up of one of the tacks under the midriff piece.

Construction Details!

There was a bit of hand stitching involved.

To keep the gathers fluffy I first hand basted the skirt to the waistband.  Then when machine stitching I used my left hand to maneuver the gathers, so they don't get too flattened in one direction.

Here's a close up of the scallops and trimming of the seam allowance.

I hand basted the eyelet ruffle before machine stitching.

I did something different than the pattern instructions when it came to attaching the bib to the midriff piece.  The diagram and instructions didn't make sense to me, so I just did my own thing.  I ended up doing a sort of sandwich technique.  It took me a while to align everything just right, and it worked.  I'm just not sure it's the best thing to do.  The lovely shape seems to disappear and flatten out.  If I make this again, I'll try something different to allow the shape of the midriff band to stand out.

Well, that's it for my Vintage Apron!  I'm going to enjoy wearing it around the house if not out at the grocery store. 

Happy Sewing!

Friday, 15 January 2016

Needle-turn Appliqué Interlude

I thought I would share a project I've recently started.  It's the Lotus quilt pattern by Jinny Beyer in the Amazon colourway.  I'm working on the appliqué corner square.  I've been working on this intermittently between other sewing projects and it's a great project for a change from machine sewing.  

This is what the finished quilt will (hopefully) look like.  I love Lonestar designs; I love doing appliqué, and Jinny Beyer is my hero when it comes to quilting.  The appliqué designs are so elegant and intricate.  This is definitely a big challenge for me.  The appliqué pieces are layered in such a way that you really need to pay attention to the order of operations.  In the photo above, I've pre-assembled the 3-piece flower and basted them together before pinning it to the background fabric.

Then I use the pattern to align the pieces together.  

 Then I baste the section down and start stitching using a fell stitch.  There are many ways to do appliqué, but I love the needle turn appliqué method because of its accuracy, precision and invisible stitches.  Well, actually, I think I also love it because it's just slower and more meditative.  It's kind of like knitting.  All you have to think about is the stitch you're making right now.  It's very relaxing, like doing a puzzle or painting really.

This quilt is NOT going to be finished anytime soon.  It's a large 98" square quilt which is a large queen size bordering on King.  I'm even thinking of hand quilting it (gasp).  This is going to be my quilt masterpiece so it will be a long term project that I take my time on to make sure it's the best it can be. 

I have lots of other garment sewing in my queue as well as some machine quilting that I will share when finished.  I would have finished my Vintage Apron by now if I didn't have to order more fabric for its completion. (Hurry up mailman and bring me more Liberty fabric!)  In the meantime, I'm enjoying my needle turn appliqué interlude.

Happy Sewing!