I managed to squeeze in one more summer dress before I start my autumn sewing, and I'm so glad I finally sewed this one! The pattern is Deer & Doe's Bleuet dress which I've had in my stash for quite a while. This is my first Deer & Doe pattern, and I'm really impressed. I'm glad I could make good use of my Liberty of London cotton poplin.
I started with doing a muslin in a size 40 grading to 42 at the waist then back to 40 at the hips, but it was too tight overall. So I decided to do a muslin in a straight size 42 with no grading. Surprisingly, it fit perfectly! So, I went ahead with a straight size 42, simple as that. I guess I'm used to lots of ease in patterns and rounding down my size. I love the shaping and the details like the bow at the back waist.
I love the fact that this pattern has a hem facing because it's so much easier to do than all that folding and pressing. It also looks less bulky. I zig-zagged the edge of the facing, and I catch-stitched it in place. The stitches are not visible on the front.
Here's a close up of the collar. There's actually no button on the collar stand because my machine didn't want to co-operate and make a buttonhole on the bulky edge. Nevertheless, the collar sits nicely. I was thinking I could always put a small snap in there that would be invisible on the outside.
I REALLY love wearing this dress. I think this is my new favourite dress pattern. I feel like it was designed for me. And I didn't even need any fitting modifications. That rarely happens! I could totally see this in a lightweight denim. I may lengthen it to the knee next time. Either way, I can see more Bleuet's in my future!
So this picture shows how the collar stand needs to be pinned. Because of the three-dimensional nature of the collar, you can't just pin it flat. I hold the pieces up off the table and pin them in a gentle curve shape.
To get a neat curve, I draw in the seam allowance with pencil first. Oh and you can see I basted the pieces together first. I know it takes more time to baste, but I find it helps me have better control over multiple layers of fabric. Actually, I found sewing the collar stand to the body of the garment tricky. I got a couple little puckers, even though I hand basted the thing. But it would have been even harder if I had a bunch of pins in there. At least they are really tiny puckers and are not visible especially because there's a collar covering the area.
Here's my handy point turner. The curved end actually worked well for the collar stand curve.
Well, this may be farewell to summer dresses but I'm also excited to start autumn and winter sewing. I can feel summer beginning to slip away and more cool days being interspersed here and there.
Here are some of my plants sunning themselves in the remnants of summer heat before they have to come back inside.