Sunday, 11 January 2015

Vintage wool skirt

About the Pattern

Hollywood Pattern 1602:  I was drawn to this vintage pattern because of the fitted and feminine yet tailored lines.  I like the slim A-line skirt that is very 1940's and the gores are a beautiful detail.  I couldn't find a year printed on the pattern, but it's from the 1940's.  The skirt has five gores on the front and three gores on the back.  All those seams allow more opportunities for adjusting the fit.  I also love the jacket.  I like both the short sleeved and the long sleeved versions, but I'm not a fan of those pockets.  If I have pockets with it, I would probably do a more traditional pocket.  I want to make the jacket one day but for now I'm concentrating on the skirt.

 I traced out the pattern pieces and markings using a tracing wheel but no carbon paper.  I found it easier just to cut it out following the perforations, and it was easy to see the markings that I then darkened with pen.  I made a muslin and had to adjust the pattern a bit.  I took out some excess fabric from the lower back to create a bit of contouring.  The skirt  also stuck out a bit and had a bit of a funny drape.  I realized the pieces were not on grain.  They also did not fit well together.  So I trued the seams and adjusted the grainline.

About the Fabric

  I found the most luscious Ralph Lauren cashmere/wool blend from Mood fabrics!  I'm using silk organza to underline the wool.

I pre-treated the wool by putting it in the dryer with two damp towels to create some gentle steam.  I was worried about it, but it turned out beautifully.  This fabric is soft and richly coloured with soft heathered brown and cream.  I can't wait to wear it!

I love the silk organza.  It's so light and barely there but it has a lot of body.  So,  I had already cut out my fabric and rather than cut out the organza using the paper pattern;  I pinned the fabric directly to the organza.  I wanted to align the grains as closely as possible.  Then I gave myself about an inch of allowance around each piece while I hand basted within the seam allowance.  Only after I completed the hand-basting did I trim the organza.  That way the grain lines align and the edges also align

I used my hot pink silk thread just because it's yummy to sew with.   It's amazing how the silk organza affects the fabric.  I can't wait to see how it affects the skirt as a whole.

I just have a couple more pieces to underline then I'll be looking forward to sewing them together.  

Happy New Year and Happy Sewing!

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