Friday, 30 January 2015

Vintage Wool Skirt Completed

I have thoroughly enjoyed sewing this lovely skirt, and I'm delighted with the way it turned out!  I found that my Hawthorn Berry Sweater was the perfect companion. It was surprisingly comfortable (for a few quick minutes) considering it was -24 degrees Celsius out there! 

The pattern is a vintage pattern I found on Etsy: Hollywood Pattern 1602.
I love the A-line silhouette, gores, and the fact that it has a left side zip.  I don't know why but I think side closures lend a more feminine, polished feel to the whole garment. 
I used a beautiful wool/cashmere blend fabric that I underlined with silk organza.  Check out my previous post for more details about the pattern, fabric, and the underlining I chose.  Speaking of underlining, I just wanted to say that I think it gave the skirt a lot of body.  The complete garment feels very durable yet soft thanks to the silk organza underlining.  It was my first time using silk organza, and it certainly won't be the last!

Now, for a few sewing details! Yay!
I made the lining from a soft bemberg rayon.  I slip stitched the lining to the invisible zip.  

Ok! Here's the hem.  I did a 2 inch hem, and I didn't ease the fullness in with ease stitching but rather just shaped it with a bit of steam.  I figured it's not like a circle skirt or anything so it's not a lot of fullness to ease in.  I ended up using lace hem-tape which I catch stitched to the silk organza underlining.  I like the look of the lace, but it seems a bit flimsy.  The reason I went with the lace tape is that I felt doing a folded hem would look too bulky.  I'm not sure; I may change it.

Lovely left side closure (my favourite!)  

 The button is purely decorative.  The waistband closes with a hook-and-eye.  I love this button, but it may be too bulky for this dainty waistband.  

Well!  That concludes my Vintage Wool Skirt exhibit.  I feel I learned a great deal from this project, and I'll have fun wearing it too!

Next up on my sewing table... finally a project for my Liberty of London cotton lawn!

Happy Sewing!

Friday, 16 January 2015

Vintage Sewing Pledge 2015

Yesterday, I joined the 2015 Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge; that is in the second year.  This challenge is hosted by A Stitching Odyssey and co-hosted by Kerry of Kestrel Makes. When I heard about it, I knew it would be a great challenge for me.  I don't have a ton of vintage patterns, but I do have a few that I have not yet sewn.  I also have reproduction patterns that have not yet been sewn.  .  This would motivate me to  sew those lovely patterns tucked away in my pattern drawer.  My favourite decade is the 1940's, but I'd also go for some garments from the 30's and 50's.  I'm not into the 60's or 70's, but you never know.  So I'm putting this pledge out there into blogland:

I Nayla, of Nayla's Notions pledge to sew four garments from vintage or reproduction patterns within the year 2015.  

It shouldn't be too difficult to make four garments and yet it's still a challenge.  I'm a slow sewer and believe in quality, not quantity.  I also have so many other things I want to make.  I'm already working on the first one of the year, which happens to be a vintage pattern; my lovely 40's wool skirt!

I'm looking forward to this awesome challenge... Yay!

Happy Sewing!

Sunday, 11 January 2015

Vintage wool skirt

About the Pattern

Hollywood Pattern 1602:  I was drawn to this vintage pattern because of the fitted and feminine yet tailored lines.  I like the slim A-line skirt that is very 1940's and the gores are a beautiful detail.  I couldn't find a year printed on the pattern, but it's from the 1940's.  The skirt has five gores on the front and three gores on the back.  All those seams allow more opportunities for adjusting the fit.  I also love the jacket.  I like both the short sleeved and the long sleeved versions, but I'm not a fan of those pockets.  If I have pockets with it, I would probably do a more traditional pocket.  I want to make the jacket one day but for now I'm concentrating on the skirt.

 I traced out the pattern pieces and markings using a tracing wheel but no carbon paper.  I found it easier just to cut it out following the perforations, and it was easy to see the markings that I then darkened with pen.  I made a muslin and had to adjust the pattern a bit.  I took out some excess fabric from the lower back to create a bit of contouring.  The skirt  also stuck out a bit and had a bit of a funny drape.  I realized the pieces were not on grain.  They also did not fit well together.  So I trued the seams and adjusted the grainline.

About the Fabric

  I found the most luscious Ralph Lauren cashmere/wool blend from Mood fabrics!  I'm using silk organza to underline the wool.

I pre-treated the wool by putting it in the dryer with two damp towels to create some gentle steam.  I was worried about it, but it turned out beautifully.  This fabric is soft and richly coloured with soft heathered brown and cream.  I can't wait to wear it!

I love the silk organza.  It's so light and barely there but it has a lot of body.  So,  I had already cut out my fabric and rather than cut out the organza using the paper pattern;  I pinned the fabric directly to the organza.  I wanted to align the grains as closely as possible.  Then I gave myself about an inch of allowance around each piece while I hand basted within the seam allowance.  Only after I completed the hand-basting did I trim the organza.  That way the grain lines align and the edges also align

I used my hot pink silk thread just because it's yummy to sew with.   It's amazing how the silk organza affects the fabric.  I can't wait to see how it affects the skirt as a whole.

I just have a couple more pieces to underline then I'll be looking forward to sewing them together.  

Happy New Year and Happy Sewing!